Tuesday, August 16, 2011

4 Rules about photography

4 Rules About 
Before we plunge into the world of photography more deeply, we should know the basic of these photography techniques. Among them is that we must understand the rules about photography.
Here I will describe some rules in photography, including: Composition Line, Geometric Shapes, The Rule of Thirds, Framing Images.

1. Composition Line
The composition of the POI is how we put in the frame so that the concept of balance and simplicity going on there.

Line has an important role as one element supporting the theory of composition. Lines meant here who could have been formed from the angle and position the frame so that the line formed from actual objects, like trees, railroads, power lines and other objects that make up the line.

Lines can also provide an additional effect on the visual and emotional impact of the picture because:

- Additional lines can display a dynamic impression in photos
- A line of photo lovers invited to direct his attention to the area (POI)
- Lines can also create depth (depth) in a composition field.
- A line we can use as well as directions and orientation in the image, etc.

In addition, understand the theory of composition is important because such lines could invite a response from the audience of how photographs They feel and mood from conducting your photos, which then becomes a challenge, how we "use" and "use" lines to draw the attention of connoisseur photos.

For this type of line we can reply "use" in adding the composition of our picture frames include :

- Leading lines,

- Vertical lines, 

- Horizontal lines,

- Diagonal lines,

- Curve lines,

- Perspective lines.
composition of several lines above each can cause different effects in the cause and evoke the mood for photos viewers.

2. Geometric Shapes

With the position of the key aspects of the landscape at the corner of geometric shapes you can help create a balanced composition. Probably the most common and easiest way to do this is to use the 'triangle' forms between objects in an image with three objects in the frame is positioned with one for each side and one center. Geometric shapes used in this way is one technique to get a balance in the shooting to lead the eye into the photo shooting (in the same way with diagonal lines above rules).

3. The Rule of Thirds

The Rule of Thirds will come out more often than others in all types of photography and is one of the first regulation of the composition is taught to students of photography. Although it sometimes feels a bit cliche this may also be a very effective technique in landscapes (although keep in mind that the breaking (and other rules) can also produce images that are dramatic and exciting). Key points in the landscape position is on the point of intersection between an imaginary 'third' dots in the picture and you will help provide balance to the images that you shoot an image focal point and help to really grab attention.

4. Framing Images

Many of us often put the photos in a frame, both frames as a means of displaying images (such as picture frames for wall hung, placed on a table / nightstand or other places), as well as limiting virtual frame image area with the photo paper / other print media .

The benefit of framing the image include:
1. Giving context to the photo
2. Adding a message of the photo
3. Gives the impression of more than photos
4. Creating a point of view of photo
5. Attracting viewers of your photos.

Frame for a photograph can be obtained from any and all objects, including tree branches, mirror, shot through the window, from behind the fence, behind the foliage, behind the gate, even from the person's head and shoulders, and others.

The above rule is not a rule that must be applied in photography. Rules can be used as a material consideration in taking a picture. For me personally a good outcome is determined from the imagination and creativity of each individual. Hopefully this article helps: D

Friday, August 12, 2011

Hyperfocal distance for landscape photography

For landscape photography enthusiasts, the term hyperfocal distance (the distance hiperfocal) may not be so foreign. But for beginners and learners who started like landscape photography like me, this term certainly worth exploring further.

Hyperfocal distance is the distance where all objects can be incorporated into the focus of "acceptable". Based on its value, there are two senses of the hyperfocal distance. First, the hyperfocal distance is the shortest distance in which the lens can be focused while objects at a distance of infinity remains sharp; the focal distance with a maximum depth of field. When the lens is focused at this distance, all objects at a distance of half the hyperfocal distance to infinity will be sharp. The second sense, hyperfocal distance is the distance in which all objects appear sharp, for the lens focused on infinity point. These two terms need not cause confusion because it is basically the same.

Hyperfocal Distance

The point here is on landscape photography, all of the object to be photographed must be sharp, there is no out of focus, the background blur (bokeh) or whatever (within certain tolerance limits).objects that are close in front of you will not look sharp.

Normal & Wide Lens

On the concept of landscape photography and the hyperfocal distance, the use of lenses is crucial. Typically, the lens is suitable for application of hyperfocal distance is a normal lens and wide-angle. This is because this type of lens has a hyperfocal distance is relatively short if the aperture is set on a large number (small aperture). For example hyperfocal distance for 17mm lens which is set using the aperture 1 / 16 on a 35mm camera (full frame) is about 0.6 meters. So everything is starting 0.3 meters to infinity will appear sharp.

Tele lens

Telephoto lens is very rarely used for applications such as the hyperfocal distance for this lens has a hyperfocal distance is relatively far away. For example hyperfocal distance for a 200mm lens aperture is set to use 1 / 16 on a 35mm camera (full frame) is about 83 meters! So everything is starting 41.5 meters to infinity will appear sharp. Therefore, a telephoto lens is less suitable for landscape photography. 

How to make bokeh photography

Original Bokeh is a Japanese word meaning 'blurred', so is the bokeh photograph photographs that highlight the characteristics of a main object of focus is very sharp while the background (or foreground) is very vague, or in English selective focusing. In the example above the beautiful photos (the work of Sector Two), the main object model face is very sharp, but the background is the door to look very blurry (motion blur). Well, nature is called bokeh blurred. How can so that we can produce bokeh like this photo.

The emergence of bokeh in the photo still want any moving picture is influenced by various factors interacting, among others:

1. The distance between the main part of image / subject to background / foreground

Generally bokeh will look when the distance between the main object with background / foreground far enough. But distance is not a fixed variable in obtain bokeh, still influenced by other factors, as well as the good and bad bokeh.

2. Large aperture

Difficult to bring up the narrow aperture bokeh. Generally bokeh will look at large aperture provided background / foreground blur is not maximal. That is bokeh will look when the piece is still indistinguishable dark light or still have gradation.

3. Lens focal / focal length

The bigger the fire point of a lens, the more possible since the advent bokeh DOF increasingly narrow. The use of wide angle lens is very difficult to produce bokeh.

4. Type / design of the lens including the lens of pieces of material

Lens design does not directly affect the onset of bokeh, but very effect on the quality of bokeh produced. But unfortunately, not high-quality lens necessarily produce good bokeh quality. Lenses with different corrections, which improve the sharpness of the image, it produces worse quality bokeh.

Lens reflex (Catadioptric lens), which include elements of the lens with a mirror, cause the typical ring-shaped bokeh, donut-shaped. This happens because the center of the cone of light is not blocked by the focus ring mounted mirror right in the middle circumference of the lens (the smaller the circumference of the mirror)

Soft lenses, generally produce less good bokeh, because the center of each bokeh less soft than the point of interest, so we need special filters to fix it.
(Note: different from the soft out of focus in general)

5. The number and shape of pieces / blade diaphragm

Number of diaphragm and pieces do not really have a direct link with the onset of bokeh, but only contributes to the shape bokeh. Most of the lens maker always linking number plate diaphragm with bokeh quality, and unfortunately accepted this opinion by most photographers, especially those who lack understanding of optical physics. in understanding they are, more shape of pieces, more better for bokeh. When in fact the many pieces of diaphragm just make bokeh more rounded shape, with consequences the more expensive lenses. There are other things about the pieces of the diaphragm is to know, ie the number of odd pieces of the diaphragm, can cause effects that are sometimes sought after photographers, the beam star-shaped around a very bright spot in the region out of focus. But generally appear the narrow aperture. The number of beam lines generated 2 times the shape amount, eg: diaphragm with a number of chips 5, will cause a star shape with 10 rays at each point of light. Diaphragm with an even number of chips just cause star shape with the number of jets equal to the number shape of pieces so that the diaphragm 8 pieces produce only stars with eight rays. But once again we must emphasized that it was only in form, not on the distribution of rays that cause bokeh.

Now i'll give tips how to make a bokeh photography :

1. Use / set the camera on manual mode (Aperture Priority)
2. Use the aperture as much as possible, usually there is writing on the lens f / x, the smaller the aperture the  
    greater x is.
3. Calculate the distance to the object background images, if the distance to objects far background the 
    importance of the photo is very blurry.
4. Use of Non-Zoom lens with high aperture
5. Many training course

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Techniques Photographing Model In Outdoors

For photographing models outdoors, there are several techniques that need to be considered by the budding photographer, among others:

1. Use the camera on the ZOOM position so that the model could be a bit far from you.

2. Do not use the Wide Angle lens at the position (wide lens) because there will be distortion effects, the model looks more broadly.

3. When photographing models outdoors, try to find time when the sun is still soft (8-10 mornings or afternoons 3-5). It is characterized by the shadows under the eyelids or nose and neck look softer.

4. Use side lighting technique, where the light comes from the left or right model.

5. In anticipation of the models that are not exposed to light, you can use the techniques fill in light (fill light). Fill in light engineering is a simple to use white paper or white cloth as a reflector (reflective light medium)

6. For models with body size is, position the camera in the middle of the frame and the high level with the model.

7. For models with heavier body size or wide, try to take a somewhat oblique position or about the right to look thinner models.

8. For shooting outdoors models, choose locations that are not so crowded and the soft background so the model became the dominant look. Background color selection also endeavored to avoid the color red because it tends to make skin color more pale or even bluish - tint.

9. Dedication by the model is important because it will affect the aura of the resulting images, try to make models feel comfortable and relaxed, generally this will be obtained after 30 minutes of shooting.

10. Good communication is important so that the model does not lose the mood, such as delivering a less flattering pose, should be raised only the confidence of the model by saying "Ok .." "Well ..", "Great .. poses next please ... "

Understanding Basic Color for IR Photography

One technique in photography there is a technique called Infra Red or IR. To understand these techniques we must first understand the basic colors to get the IR colors are beautiful. There are pictures triangle, which enter the respective angles are color coded (Red, Blue, Green). Be like the picture above the mean is:

* Ma: Magenta is the color combination of Red + Blue
* C: Cyan is a mix of colors between Blue + Green
* Y: Yellow is the color combination of Red + Green
* P: White is a mixture of the three colors Red + Blue + Green

This theory is very useful for IR photography enthusiasts, namely
Understanding of color theory and 3 receptor RGB channel mixer, which means:

If a red convertible with the Blue channel (which we call common channel mixer ...)
Red will be blue
Blue will be Red
Green will remain green

Cyan will be Yellow
Yellow will be the Cyan
Will remain Magenta Magenta

Technical Photography & Functions

Photography is not everything about the camera. It is said that photography is the art of playing with light. Without light, the photography was impossible. Produces a good picture, must have a strong vision in terms of 'seeing'. Attention to the light, composition and moment are the things that are important to consider in making images that can be categorized as 'good'.

However, it seems impossible to produce a picture like that if you do not know and understand each of the technical foundation of photography. Photography is not everything about the camera, but the camera is a tool to deliver our vision. So, if need to know and understand how the camera works.

The main task of the camera is set the intensity of incoming light and at the end of the film / sensor (hereafter I call medium). If the camera allows too much light entering the medium will be burned (overexposed). And vice versa. How to keep the incoming light is not excessive and no less, or in other words 'pass'. Here I describe the one-one.


Or, sometimes called a diaphragm or aperture lens is functioning to regulate how much the lens opens. This function is more precisely located on the lens. Logically, the larger the opening, the more light will enter. Like a water faucet. The bigger we open the faucet, the more water will come out.

Writing the correct aperture is f / x. So when it is said his Aperture value is 5.6, then writing the truth is f/5.6. So do not be confused when someone said that the lens aperture 2.8 aperture greater than 5.6. Because if it's true mathematical writing, right? (F/2.8> f/5.6), but most of us are lazy to say f/2.8 or f/5.6, because we are simple people anyway ...

Side Effects of Aperture

Like cough medicine that has side effects, as well as the aperture. The side effects are greater the aperture, the smaller area of ​​focus. And vice versa. Focus area is commonly known as the DOF (Depth of Field).

Shutter Speed

Or commonly referred to as speed or shutter speed on duty to regulate how long the mirror open and closed again to limit how much light will enter. Like the theory of the tap, when we open the tap too long, then the reservoir container so that excess water was going to be more likely to smear out. If in the case of photography, the medium will burn.

Writing the correct shutter speed is 1 / x. So when it is said that a photo menggunkanan speed 60, then the true authorship is 1 / 60 sec. So do not be confused to say that the speed 60 faster than 30. because writing is so mathematically?

Side Effect of Shutter Speed

Like dating that have side effects, such as hard glance woman / other man, as well as the shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, it will be increasingly seen silent picture (freeze). And conversely, if the speed is too slow image will look blurry because the movement is too fast, so objects appear to move very fast.


Is the sensitivity of the medium in receiving light. The higher the value, the more levels of sensitivity. That is, if we change the ISO or ASA value becomes higher, while the aperture and speednya not changed, then the medium will receive more light.

Side Effects of ISO or ASA

ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor (medium), while the ASA is the sensitivity of the film (medium), so the difference is only dimediumnya only. But the same logic. Unless the side effects. Where when using a high ASA film, the picture will look grainy (in the form of small dots, but a lot). While the use of high ISO will generate noise (such as a worm, but a lot).